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When subjected to sociological analysis, the history of the dress can be used to reflect upon wider historical changes and tendencies To speak to the interfaces of fashion and religion, I must start with a consideration as to what I mean by both fashion and religion in the frame of this paper.
This would seemingly place these two phenomena in di ff erent realms of life and render the interfacing of fashion and religion an oxymoron. For example, an increase in availability of factory-made textile materials is likely to reduce domestic spinning and weaving activities, altering common dress materials and styles.
I show how such elements of fashionability can penetrate even the most strictly protected dress styles, introducing subtle change in supposedly unchanging dress. Both everyday realities and research literature show time and again that fashion and religion form alliances: there are religion-focussed fashion industries, religious fashions and fashionable religiosities e.
Free for commercial use High Quality Images. Religions is an international, interdisciplinary, peer-reviewed open access journal published monthly online by MDPI. Window, Mac, Linux · Last updated · Commercial licence included. Therefore, a spontaneously donned, religiously defined attire can irritate an established religious leadership to the extent that they prefer fashionable clothes—which Christian churches often have shunned and condemned Ribeiro —instead.
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Fashion is not only a wider process of change Aspers and Godart ; it is also a system through which numerous minor changes are o ff ered to or forced upon the wearers of clothes. At the same time, numerous fashion processes make even the seemingly fossilised dress transform in more or less subtle ways, and such changes may indeed be deemed necessary, in order to keep the dress style alive.
In this regard, heightened dress control seems a good indicator of a high level of seclusion of a religious group, as well as a sense of external threat within a religious movement. Dress has been central to many religious movements, groups and sects throughout history Arthur , ; Barker ; Hyme , including Christian churches, movements and sects Classen ; Hawley Contrary to popular beliefs, fashion and religion are not automatically and essentially opposed or contradictory concepts, although they may so become, depending on social conditions.
Context and Methods of Research To help the reader situate the argument presented in this paper, some contextualising is necessary The narrative starts in the early 19 th century, when Finland had been conquered by Russia and became an autonomous part of the Empire in The clergy of the time belonged to a higher estate of social standing, along with the gentry and, increasingly, the bourgeoisie.
Emerging from a declining peasant dress style, this supposedly unchanging and fossilised signifier of a revivalist Protestant movement has in fact gone through numerous transformations influenced by both socio-political and religious trends as well as fashion-driven and materially-ordained factors.
In so doing, I seek to contribute to fashion scholarship involved in explorations of fashion in times, locations and realms usually not associated with it, thus challenging normative and hegemonic understandings of the concept Almila and Inglis In spirit of Max Weber, I look into the year history of a specific societal order, seeking to comprehend what kinds of lessons it can teach us about the interconnectedness of the realms of the religious and the fashionable.
Yet we know this is not the case. As regards fashion, there are a number Religions , 10 , ; doi Religions , 10 , 2 of 18 of fashion processes involved here. The fashionability and availability of one thing can a ff ect the desirability and accessibility of other goods.
I show, therefore, that as societal conditions change, so too change the meanings associated with an otherwise relatively stable style of dress. The estate of independent peasants, as well as those. Copyright license : Creative Commons Attribution 4.
Importantly, there are various strategies involved in these processes whereby individuals and groups seek to ensure their own survival and to influence others at the same time 2. Under di ff erent historical conditions, the same style of dress may come to be politically charged as well as religiously appropriate.
This, I argue, has directly influenced various dress strategies within the movement. I will argue that the dress in question is in fact much more. While there have been changes in taste for certain styles and garments in wider Finnish society for a long time, these have also been enabled by the production, distribution and retail of goods Kopisto and Sihvo Such fashions may penetrate religious garment systems both by the desire of wearers and for pragmatic reasons.
The journal publishes a variety of scholarly works including research papers, reviews, communications, and research reports, as well as comprehensive book reviews and discussions. High-quality PNG file. From the analysis emerge four key factors that influence how dress strategies are formulated and enacted within a religious movement: 1 how vulnerable or institutionalised the movement is; 2 how it is viewed by those external to it; 3 how the members of the movement want themselves to preserve or change the movement and its public image; 4 and how external fashion processes infiltrate the tastes and sensibilities of the members.
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Dress is still used to make statements and to indicate and create belonging, but the boundaries formulated are weak and the strategy often is to seek to cross boundaries rather than to erect barriers Finally, I show how no group or movement can control their dress from inside the group only.